Piazza, playhouses and quiet courtyards
The Piazza is the heart of it, with the Apple Market under its iron and glass roof and the Royal Opera House filling one whole side. Drury Lane and Catherine Street hold the great theatres. Neal's Yard, a small painted courtyard off Monmouth Street, feels like a secret even when it is busy, and the seven streets of Seven Dials meet around a single column crowned with sundials. Down towards the water, Somerset House opens its courtyard for concerts in summer and an ice rink in winter.
The district is built for the before and after of a performance. Diners watch the clock in the early evening, the streets empty as the curtains rise, then fill again when the shows come down. A companion here understands that rhythm and plans around it.


